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The fight with the sawfly on the gooseberry

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Gooseberry most susceptible to two diseases - American powdery mildew (spherotek) and septoriozu (white spot).

Of the pests more than others, he is plagued by gooseberry fire and yellow gooseberry sawflies.

Gooseberry powdery mildew (sphere library)

The causative agent is the mushroom Sphaerotheca mors-uvae (Schv.) Berk. et curt. It was brought to Russia with planting material from America at the end of the XIX century.

Mealy white bloom appears on young parts of plants: tops of shoots, leaves, berries. Over time, the bloom darkens, the affected parts of the plant dry up and fall off. Plaque consists of superficial mycelium and fungus sporulation. Conidia are spread by wind and, under favorable conditions, sprout into a new mycelium. Sporulation of the fungus is manifested in the form of black dots, which are the fruiting bodies of this stage.

For the appearance of powdery mildew on gooseberry, high relative air humidity (90-100%) and moderately warm weather (+ 17 ... 28 ° С) are favorable. Most modern varieties are resistant to the sphere library, but the disease is selective and affects young plants more strongly. In dry air with a decrease in humidity (up to 2530%) the fungus dies.

Excess nitrogen fertilizer increases plant susceptibility. The introduction of phosphate and potash fertilizers helps to increase the resistance of the gooseberry bushes to powdery mildew. The fungus also affects black, red and golden currants.

Control measures:
Use in plantations of the most resistant to gum disease varieties of gooseberry.
Destruction of a wintering infection: pruning of diseased parts of shoots in the fall and spring and burning. Destruction of diseased berries.

If last season there were symptoms of a lesion (white cobweb scurf on the leaves and a dirty gray felt crust on the berries), during budding the plants are sprayed with topaz, Vectra, strobe, the second treatment is carried out 2 weeks after flowering.

If you are a supporter of treatments only with natural remedies, then before sprouting the kidneys, spraying with ashes is recommended. A bucket of ash is boiled in three buckets of water with the addition of 30-40 g of soap.

What to do in the summer if you see white bloom on gooseberry berries when chemicals cannot be used? Treat the plants with a 0.5% solution of soda ash with the addition of 0.4% household soap (50 g of soda and 40 g of soap per 10 liters of water).
Also in the treatment can help spraying a solution of rotted cow manure at the rate of 1 part manure to 3 parts water. The solution is infused for three days, then diluted 2-3 times, filtered and used for spraying.
Applying phosphate-potash fertilizers.

White spot of currants and gooseberries (Septoria)

The causative agent is the mushroom Septoria ribis Desm. It affects currants and gooseberries, causes massive drying out of the leaves and their premature abscission. Patients shoots give poor growth and often shrink. With the defeat on the leaves already in May, round or angular (2-3 mm in diameter) brown spots are formed, lightening with time, but with a brown border.

The development of the disease contributes to wet warm weather, thickening of the landings.
Unfortunately, there are no varieties resistant to septoria.

Control measures:
Collection and burning of fallen leaves.
Digging the soil in the ranks in order to combat wintering infection.
Before flowering and after harvesting, the diseased bushes and the ground beneath them are treated with the drug Skor.
In the autumn, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied and they dig up near-trunk circles.

Anthracnose currants and gooseberries

The causative agent - mushrooms Gloeosporium ribis (Sib.) Mont. et Desm. f grossulariae, Pseudopeziza ribis Kleb.
Causes premature leaf fall. On the petioles and leaves, green shoots, very small brown spots are formed, which, merging, make the leaves brown. The first signs of the disease appear at the end of flowering.
Its intensive development is observed in July-August, occurs when the weather is wet (rainy warm summer). The fungus overwinters in the affected leaves.

Anthracnose on gooseberry develops slowly, which is associated with the late maturation of fungal spores. Only by the end of the harvest, the development of the disease in the presence of the necessary conditions increases.

Control and treatment measures:
Collection and burning of fallen leaves.
Digging the soil around the plants.
Spraying in the fall or spring before bud break 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture.
Summer spraying with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture (8-10 kg / ha, waiting period of 15 days) for queen plants and nurseries during the growing season.
The introduction of phosphorus-potash fertilizers, increasing the resistance to anthracnose.

Black Currant Mite

(Eriophyes ribis Nal.)
Females and males with a worm-like body shape of white color, with a piercing wedge-shaped proboscis of the head. The body length of females - 0.3 mm, males - 0.15 mm.

Kidney mite especially hurts in areas of sufficient moisture. The mite feeds inside the buds of black, red, white currant and gooseberry, which causes them to swell. Tick-borne buds in the spring are not disclosed and die. Ticks spread with planting material.

Control measures:
Thermotherapy of cuttings at a temperature of + 45 ... 46 ° C for 13-15 minutes.
The introduction of high doses of mineral and organic fertilizers and foliar dressings.
Spraying with 1% suspension of colloidal sulfur (10 kg / ha) or lime-sulfur decoction with a strength of 0.5-1.0% during budding and after flowering.

Gooseberry Fire

(Zophodia convolutella Zell.)
Dangerous and common pest of gooseberry berries. The butterfly is gray, resembling a large carpet mole, up to 13 mm long, with a wingspan of up to 3 cm. It takes off from wintering in late April - early May, when the soil dries and warms up. This coincides with the beginning of the blooming of the leaves or the exposure of the buds.

23 days after the start of the fire, the gooseberries start laying eggs, one inside the flower, and when the egg-laying is delayed - on the leaves, young ovaries. From eggs, small light green caterpillars are born that bite into the young ovaries (berries) and gradually destroy their contents - seeds, pulp. One caterpillar damages 4-6 berries. Moving from one berry to another, the caterpillars entangle them with a light web.

In late June - early July, before the berries ripen, adult caterpillars become bright green, sometimes with a brownish tinge, with a black head, reaching a length of 18 mm. They descend to the ground, crawl under the lumps of soil, pupate and winter inside the spider cocoons in the upper layers of the soil. Damaged berries turn red, rot, dry and fall. If you do not fight with ognevka on the gooseberry, it can destroy the entire crop of berries.

Control measures:
Thorough autumn tillage throughout the plantation, especially in the area of ​​the bushes. In this case, the caterpillars located in the surface layer are in the deeper layers of the soil and die.

In backyard gardens, in addition to digging up the soil under bushes, hilling of the latter is used within a radius of the crown at a height of 10-12 cm, which prevents the flight of the moth. Two weeks after flowering bushes razokuchivayut.

In early spring, when isolating the buds, as well as immediately after flowering, the gooseberry from the moth can be treated with Carbofos. The first spraying is aimed at the destruction of butterflies, the second - the caterpillars of younger ages when moving them from one berry to another.

Modern means of struggle:
In the early spring, the gooseberries are sprayed with Intavira against the fire nest and sawfly, and after flowering with kinmiks.

Yellow gooseberry sawfly

(Pteronidae ribessii Scop.)
One of the most dangerous gooseberry pests. It is a small butterfly with two pairs of transparent yellow wings and a brown body with yellow spots. Females fly out in early spring after leafing, often during the gooseberry bloom period.

They lay up to 100 cylindrical eggs along the veins on the lower side of young leaves. From the eggs on the 5-10th day, the larvae appear. They feed on the leaves, starting from the lower inner part of the bush, so at first they are hardly noticeable. During its development, which lasts 15-20 days, the larvae reach a length of 15-20 mm, then go to the soil for pupation, where they hibernate at a depth of 10 cm in a brown oblong cocoon.

In July, the second, most numerous generation of sawflies flies out of the pupae, the larvae of which cause particularly severe damage to the leaves, leaving only the veins. Under favorable weather conditions, the third generation of the pest can develop. Its larvae are very voracious. With mass reproduction, in a few days they destroy all the leaves, which leads to the death of the crop, not only this, but next year. The growth of weakened bushes stops, the process of budding is inhibited. Sometimes the second wave of shoot growth begins, but the shoots do not have time to finish it, go into the winter immature and freeze in severe frosts.

How to fight:
It is important to monitor the occurrence of sawfly in order to destroy its first least numerous generation. The fight begins with the treatment of plants with insecticides against the first generation of the pest, carried out in the period of isolation of the buds - before flowering, against the second generation - after the end of flowering, in terms of the fight with gooseberries. To do this, use karbofos (50% ke, 1.0-2.6 kg / l).
Autumn tillage, especially careful under the bushes, causes the death of the larvae who have spent the winter,
On private plots, the larvae, especially the first generation, can be assembled and destroyed manually.

Common Spider Mite

(Tetranychus urticae Koch.)
A multi-pest pest that severely damages leaves of berry plants, including gooseberries. It causes especially great damage in arid hot years. Adult mites are small, up to 0.43 mm long. The color of their body in summer is yellow or yellow-green, in autumn and early spring it is reddish or orange-yellow. The larvae are greenish-yellow.

Mites live on the underside of leaves. Damaged leaves first grow dull due to the appearance of numerous spots in places where ticks feed, then turn yellow, jarred, dry out and fall off with a strong lesion. In such cases, the growth of gooseberry stops, which leads to a decrease in its winter hardiness, yield and quality of berries. Females overwinter under plant debris and clumps of soil, in fallen leaves, under loose bark. In early spring, during the blooming of buds, they leave the wintering grounds, settle on the lower side of the blooming leaves, weave webs and lay eggs into it, from which the larvae soon appear. During the summer, the tick develops in several generations. Particularly intense, it multiplies in the second half of summer.

How to fight:
The most effective for combating chemical agents. The first treatment is used in the period of isolation of buds, when females of the tick leave wintering grounds.
With a strong settlement of the plant by the pest, as evidenced by the presence of mites on the blooming leaves, the treatment is repeated. Podzimnaya tillage is also used with the incorporation of fallen leaves and weeds in which the pest accumulates.

Sawfly in all its glory

Sawfly on gooseberry - photo of adult

An adult individual with a length of up to 8 mm has a different color. Yellow gooseberry sawfly - red and yellow colors prevail in the range of colors. A pale-legged type of flying insect is recognized by its primary black color and pale spots. Females are slightly larger and brighter than males. Malicious caterpillars dirty blue or green. Each has 10 pairs of legs.

The sawfly hibernates in the caterpillar stage, hidden in a cocoon, in the upper soil layer in the root zone of the shrub at a depth of 10-15 cm. With the onset of spring, the larvae hatch. When the gooseberry blooms, imagoes fly out. They sit on the young green leaves. Attach from the bottom of their eggs along the veins. Plant foci infect. With the advent of caterpillars and the beginning of their active feeding, holes are formed on the leaves. Then the sheets are eaten whole. If the larvae of the first generation remind of themselves a little, they may go unnoticed, then the second generation of the pest is more numerous. This week can eat the whole green crown on the bushes.

Attention! The destroyed leaves are not only the ruined hopes of the harvest, but also the threat to fruiting next year. The plant does not give growth, fruit and growth buds are not laid for the future.

At the same time the bush weakens. It stops the processes of photosynthesis. As a result, the fruits are underdeveloped, small. The bush does not hold, turning into a carrion. Gooseberry does not give young shoots. His protective functions are weakening. In frost freezes.

Caterpillars cause enormous damage.

Creepers are preparing to winter. Young shoots eat around the soft skin of the lamina below. With growing up, appetites grow stronger. In the feed are leaves entirely. Having gained the necessary weight, in a month, they crawl into the soil. There they pupate. Already during the ripening of the fruits, a numerous second generation of the pest flies out. The sawfly on a gooseberry is bare branches with small fruits, where instead of leaflets there are leaf veins protruding like conifer needles.

To help the harvest

If you do not intervene in the vegetative process, do not take action in time, you can ruin the plant. The fight with the sawfly on the gooseberry should be comprehensive.

  • Before the onset of frost, collect fallen leaves and burn them.
  • Soil litter in the root zone dig up to a depth of not less than 15 cm. Turn over the layers of the earth so that the individuals prepared for the winter would be frozen out. It would be good for these purposes not to use a shovel, but forks.
  • Make sure that old branches are completely cut off.
  • Regularly mulch the soil.
  • If for some reason this has not been done, the situation can be corrected in early spring, until the buds have blossomed on the branches. The ground under the bush is loosened, a mixture of 2 glasses of ash, ground pepper and dry mustard is added (1 tbsp). The earth is covered with a film. Under her pest dies.
  • Use the thermal method: with the onset of spring, slightly warm the ground at the roots to process boiling water.
  • Formed deformed, affected by the sawfly, pick off the berries manually. This is usually done 15 days after flowering. Harvested "crop" is destroyed. Periodically, the procedure is repeated until pupation of the larvae in the soil.
  • The same is done with caterpillars. Conducting regular inspections of bushes after flowering, you should pay special attention to the inner side of the leaves. To do this, the branches are raised. The larvae are collected by hand or shaken off on a piece of tarpaulin and film spread out under a bush.
  • As a scaring method, it would be good to plant an elderberry bush in the garden or plant tansy between gooseberry bushes: 1-2 plants for every 6 culture bushes.
  • The smell of the tops of tomatoes, mint is also not tolerated by the pest, as is the "flavor" of diesel, turpentine, and other odorous substances.
  • During the summer of imago they are caught in the light trap. Special tiles, cartons are painted in bright colors (orange, yellow), are smeared with non-drying glue (from tracks).

By autumn, the caterpillar pupates and hides in the ground

Effective chemicals

Attention! The most effective fight is with insecticides. Basically, processing is carried out twice: at the time of disclosure of the kidneys and after flowering. If the crop is already harvested, but the larvae reappear, the sprinkling should be repeated.

  • As soon as the currant gooseberries bloom, sprinkle the bushes with 50% trichlormetaphos-3 (20 g per 10 liters of water). It will destroy adult imagos. When new insects appear, the treatment is repeated.
  • Formation of buds: treat bushes with a solution (10%) of Malathion .75 g of the composition per 10 liters of water.
  • The first-generation larvae are destroyed by Trielormetaphos-3. To this end, 100 g of a concentrated emulsified preparation (10%) is diluted in 10 liters of water.
  • Poisons of intestinal action (Paris greens, calcium arsenate) are mixed with slaked lime and sprayed on a “bare” bush.
  • Insecticides: Inta-Vir, Decis, Kinmiks, Karate, Iskra, Gardona, Fufanon (1%), Ambush - are used in early spring, even before the flowering of the plant.
  • In addition to insecticides, biological compositions are used: Lepidocid (10 liters of water and 25 g of substance), Bitoxibacillin (10 liters of water, 90 g of the preparation), Dendrobatsillin (water - 10 l, preparation - 40 g).

Decoctions and infusions

For the fight are suitable broad-spectrum drugs.

It is possible to treat weakened bushes with nutritious top dressing from organic fertilizers. When the gooseberry, currant bloom, it will benefit from the treatment of infusions of mustard, yarrow, ash wood, tobacco leaves or tobacco. At 10 liters of infused concentrate adds 40 g of liquid soap for better fixation of the composition on the crown. If processing is repeated every 6 days 3 times, then the pest can be defeated.

  • Dry mustard (100 g dry powder) insist in water (10 l) for two days. Dilute with cold water. It is added twice the volume of the infusion. Even the solution includes liquid soap (40 g).
  • You can use tobacco dust. 1 kg poured a bucket of water. The infusion is ready for use in 24 hours.
  • Dry ashes are sprayed in the morning on leaves damp from dew (0.5 kg per shrub) in late spring or early June.
  • If the ovary is shallow, treatment with entobacterin is recommended (50 g of the composition per bucket of water). Or in a bucket of water, dilute 4 tbsp. spoons of needles extract.
  • Борьбу с личинками можно проводить настоем свежей томатной ботвы. Способ приготовления: 0,5 свежих побегов (40 г сухих), 40 г хозяйственного мыла настаиваются в 10 литрах воды 24 часа. Перед опрыскиванием раствор процеживается, разводится водой 1:4.
  • Ash liquor, broth of chilli pepper (red) is also used as a measure to combat sawflies.
  • If an elder does not grow in the garden, prepare a decoction from it and sprinkle gooseberries.
  • Before blooming buds, bushes are processed with tar: 30 g per 10 liters of water and some soap.

If time to carry out prevention, do not lose vigilance, take the time to prepare infusions and solutions, then you can do without drastic measures.

Mealy dew on gooseberry

Let's start with gooseberry disease. The most common disease that cannot be completely defeated is powdery mildew. From time to time, this disease, capable of striking all parts of the gooseberry, including berries, appears even on varieties resistant to it.

Mealy dew is a fungal disease that develops most actively when it is warm and humid. To protect your site from this scourge, you should not thicken the planting, you need to carry out sanitary pruning, cut out the thickening crown shoots, water plants moderately and remove fruits and other plant debris from the bite area.

However, sometimes even all these methods of protection do not save, and the white powdery color still appears on the fruits and leaf blades of the gooseberry. If the number of affected fruits and leaves is insignificant, then they can simply be cut and burned. In the case when most of the leaf blades are affected, it is necessary to immediately begin treatment with fungicides.

When processing gooseberries make sure to follow the instructions on the package when a particular fungicide can be applied. Usually, all chemical treatments should be completed at least a couple of weeks before harvest. Be sure to find out the hazard class of the fungicide, whether it is dangerous for bees, and if there is an apiary nearby, then the treatment should be carried out by those fungicides whose hazard class is not higher than three.

What will happen if you do not fight with powdery mildew? Then the powdery spots on the leaves of the gooseberry will begin to grow, the size of the fruit may not change, but the fruits will begin to rot. Later spores will ripen, the patina will grow gray, and with the first gust of wind the spores will scatter over a long distance, infecting neighboring plants or even other crops, such as currants.

In addition, even with the fall of the foliage from untreated plants, powdery mildew from the site will not go anywhere in the fall, it will fall into the soil, linger in the bark, fall foliage and attack the plants again in the spring, which ultimately will lead to their death.

What should I do if powdery mildew on the gooseberry is found when there are only a few days before picking and fungicides cannot be used? In this case, help folk remedies.

Good reviews come from gardeners who are struggling with powdery mildew with the help of treatments with a mixture of soda and soap.

To obtain a solution in a bucket of water, 6-7 g of soda and 50-60 g of antibacterial soap rubbed on a fine grater should be dissolved. This solution should be treated as thoroughly as possible all affected plants.

After harvesting, be sure to treat all plants with fungicides, and in the fall loosen the soil in the bite zone and re-treat the plants with fungicides.

Gooseberry Rust

This disease appears on the gooseberry quite often. It usually appears on leaf blades, as well as on flowers and ovaries. Initially, these are either small blisters of orange color - glass rust, or small yellow spots that appear only on the top of leaf blades - columnar rust.

Fungicides are also effective against rust (a fungal disease) or treatment with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture - if there is not enough time before harvest.

The next year after the appearance of rust on the gooseberry, it is necessary to re-process the plants. The first treatment needs to be done as soon as the leaf blades bloom, the second - at the moment of bud formation, the third - after the end of flowering. In case of severe damage to plants with rust, it is possible to carry out a fourth treatment.

Rust on gooseberry © Dmitri Zoubov

Gooseberry anthracnose

This is another fungal disease that usually affects gooseberry leaf blades especially well. Initially, they can detect small, slightly blurred specks that have a dark brown color. With the passage of time and the progression of the disease, these spots begin to coalesce, which leads to the premature drying of the leaf blades and their falling off. Anthracnose usually does not touch the leaves on the tops of the shoots, they remain intact.

Gooseberry bushes infected with anthracnose cease to develop, the growth of the shoots stops, the taste of the berries deteriorates markedly, and there are very few berries themselves.

How to deal with gooseberry anthracnose? To begin with, it is necessary to annually collect and destroy the fallen leaves, loosen the soil in the bite area, check leaf blades more often for infection, and if you see single leaves with spots, then immediately tear them off and burn them. If the spots are found on a large number of leaf plates, then it is necessary to treat the plants with copper sulphate, dissolving 45-50 g of this substance in a bucket of water.

If the disease attacks your plants year after year, then you should not wait for it to appear, plants need to be treated with 1% Bordeaux liquid and not once, but four or even five, starting in early spring. Be sure to carry out processing immediately after the blooming of leaf plates, before flowering, at the end of flowering, a couple of weeks after flowering and immediately after collecting the entire crop.

Anthracnose on gooseberry leaves. © jekylandhide

Gooseberry Septoria

Usually with septoria, gooseberry leaves are also the most affected. Initially, they may appear a couple or a few more spots, having a rounded shape and a grayish color with a noticeable dark border. Further dark dots are formed on the surface of the spots; these are pockets of ripe spores with an infection that is ready to fly over a long distance. After the appearance of ripe spores, the leaf blades usually begin to dry out, curl and crumble or fall off. Usually, bushes lose up to 95% of the whole leaf mass much earlier than expected.

How to fight? Be sure to collect all the fallen leaves, other plant residues and burn. The soil in the bite zone loosen both in autumn and spring. To carry out treatment with fungicides, Bordeaux mixture and copper sulfate, as well as against anthracnose.

In addition, septoria is especially active in attacking plants when manganese, copper, zinc and boron are deficient in the soil, so care must be taken to ensure that these microelements are normal in the soil.

Gooseberry Mosaic

Mosaic is a viral infection from which there is no escape. Mosaic plants need to be uprooted and burned as quickly as possible. How to understand that this mosaic? Usually on the leaf blades of diseased plants in the high season you can see a clearly visible bright yellow “pattern”, which is usually located along the main veins. After its appearance, the plants seem to stop growing and developing, practically do not form fruits, the leaves become very small and wrinkled.

Further - about gooseberry pests.

Aphids on gooseberry

Aphid is a small sucking insect that usually lives in colonies, large or small, is often tolerated by ants, feeding on its sweet secretions and sucking sap from young shoots and leaf blades, which leads to their severe deformation, twisting and growth. In addition, aphid can be a carrier of diseases, such as mosaics.

It is not easy to find the aphids themselves, however one can easily notice leaves that start to curl and deformed shoots. It is necessary to turn the leaf gooseberry or inspect the escape, as you will see colonies of aphids. As we have already mentioned, ants are often responsible for the appearance of aphids, so if there is an anthill on the site, then you will first have to remove it from the site, and only then do aphid. With a small amount of aphids, gains with it can be cut off and destroyed, but if aphids are plentiful, then insecticides should be used.

In addition to chemistry with aphids on the gooseberry, you can fight with folk remedies - treat the plants with a solution of soap (250 g of antibacterial soap diluted in a bucket of water).

Aphids on young leaves of gooseberry. © kitchengardenblog

Caterpillars on gooseberry

On the gooseberry you can find many pests caterpillars. For example, in early spring, as soon as the leaves begin to open, they are attacked by caterpillars of the gooseberry sawfly. These are individuals of green or bluish-green color with black specks on the body, having ten pairs of legs.

When large numbers of caterpillars are able to devour the entire leaf apparatus of a separate bush for 7-8 days, they must be fought immediately. If there is one or two gooseberry bushes on the plot, then the caterpillars can be collected manually, if there are many bushes and caterpillars, then the latter can be destroyed by using insecticides. From folk remedies can be applied infusions of tobacco, mustard or other cultures with the mandatory addition of soap.

Another caterpillar - the gooseberry moth - is also quite voracious and also eagerly destroys the leaf apparatus of the gooseberry. The caterpillars are 3-4 cm long and have a very noticeable bright yellow color with stripes and specks of black.

In order to destroy the pest, in addition to the use of insecticides, it is possible to place sticky pheromone traps for hunting butterflies at the site, and try to destroy the caterpillars with folk remedies: treat the plants with infusion of wood ash or soot. To do this, you can take three kilograms of well-sifted and ground to the state of the powder of wood ash or soot, put in a bucket and fill with water. Let it sit for two days, then strain, add 45-50 g of soap and treat the plants.

Another harmful caterpillar is the larva of the gooseberry moth. Individuals reach 1.5 cm in length and have a gray-green color, a black head and round black specks with glitter on the barrels. The caterpillars harm not the leaf blades, but the ovaries, eating them. In fact, one caterpillar destroys up to six future berries. Caterpillars can be harvested by hand, and in case of large numbers, exterminated by insecticides. They say that ogniyavok scares mint planted next to the gooseberry - worth a try.

Caterpillars eat gooseberry leaves. © kitchengardenblog

Glass gooseberry

It has been established that a glass bowl can affect not only currants, but also gooseberries. Usually they notice the result of the activity of a glass-case by withering fading shoots. If they are cut off, then a black spot can be seen in the center, these are the remains of a caterpillar moving at the center of the shoot by eating the contents - its core. As a rule, the caterpillars move along the shoots from top to bottom, penetrating the cracks in which the butterfly lays its eggs.

Gooseberry treatments should be carried out precisely against the insect, which is surprisingly similar to the wasp and very accurately copies its habits. Starting from May and to the beginning of June, it is necessary to carry out treatments with biological preparations - “Lepidocide” (30 g per 10 l of water) and “Bitoxibacillin” (100 g per 10 l of water), as well as the preparation “Fitoverm” (2 ml per 10 l of water ). In addition, it is necessary after cutting to always isolate cuts with garden pitch.

Currant glass larva in the damaged branch. © belmvl

Galitsa on gooseberry

Gooseberries and currants are harmed by gooseberries, and there are three types at once - sprouting, floral and leafy, affecting the corresponding plant organs. Galliums are particularly active in thickened plantations of gooseberries. You can see them only when the larvae begin to destroy the organs of the plant in which gall midges have laid their eggs. Fight against the larvae is carried out with the help of insecticides, and the gall midges themselves, in addition, can be caught with pheromone traps placed along the site.

As a preventive measure in the spring of next season, you can repeat the treatment of plants and soil with insecticides.

Of natural measures to combat the larvae of gall midges can be called processing infusion of tops of tomatoes. To prepare it, you need to put five kilograms of fresh tops of a tomato plant into a container, pour a bucket of water at room temperature and let it brew for about a day. Then strain the solution, add half a piece of laundry soap, dissolve it well in this composition and you can proceed to the treatments, conducting them 2-3 times alternating in a couple of days.

It is also noted that the mint aroma repels gall midges, therefore plots with gooseberries can be varied with mint plants.

Gooseberry preventive treatments

As you know, a disease or the appearance of a pest is sometimes much easier to prevent than to cure, so do not forget about prevention. Of course, protection measures should be started even before the gooseberries are planted on the plot, for which it is desirable to choose a plot with clean soil on which the gooseberry did not grow.

Place under the gooseberry to choose open and smooth, without slides, and the bushes to place so that they do not shade and do not interfere with each other. It is necessary to carry out and trimming, often thinning the crown and preventing it from thickening.

The early-spring treatment of plants with hot water heated to + 70 ... + 75 ° С helps to spread the infection. It is necessary to water this bushes at the very end of March or early April with this water from a watering can. A bucket of water is usually enough for 3-4 bush, depending on their age.

Do not forget about the collection and destruction of plant residues - branches, leaves, fruits.

Often mulch the soil around the gooseberry bush and change the mulch once a month, so that even if the butterfly laid eggs there, they were destroyed when the mulch layer was replaced with a new one.

When pruning, always isolate the cut areas with garden pitch so that the glass case does not penetrate inside the shoots.

Do not forget about prophylactic treatments. So, in early spring you can process gooseberry bushes with a 3% Bordeaux liquid, and after flowering with a 1% Bordeaux liquid, this is a good prevention of fungal diseases.

To protect the plants from powdery mildew in the summer, you can treat them with a solution of soda and soap (50 g of soda and 50 g of soap per bucket of water). Treatments can be carried out 2-3 times over the summer with a break of 10-15 days.

After harvesting for the prevention of anthracnose plants can be treated with 1% Bordeaux mixture.

In the autumn, be sure to break through the bite zone, water the bushes, grind the surface with peat or humus.

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